I own two box turtles, Fred and Ethel, and I’ve had them for almost 20 years. In the past I’ve owned California desert tortoises and African Sulcata tortoises. I also care for red-eared sliders and Greek Tortoises that belong to pet sitting clients.

All turtles and tortoises are reptiles, but their care varies greatly by species. Box Turtles are small, about 5 inches in diameter, and protect themselves by closing up their shells so you can’t get to their feet, tail or head.

Habitat
They need to be confined in a small pen because they will dig under a patio deck or bury themselves in the mud and you’ll never see them again. In cold climates they will hibernate unless you provide heat lamps. I keep mine in a large 60 gallon fish tank (with sterile reptile bark from Petco in the bottom) with a heat lamp set to 85 degrees on a thermostat at one end.

Because reptiles cannot regulate their body temperature, they need a place to get away from the heat. They will self-regulate by moving close to or away from the heat source. Some people use hot rocks for their turtles to bask on. You could use this same heat lamp set-up outdoors as long as the turtles are protected from predators (more on that later). They also like to dig under piles of hay or grass.

Food and water
Box turtles will eat protein (meat) and plants. Mealworms, night crawlers, and canned dog food are great sources of protein. Fruits and vegetables for box turtles include: bananas, melon, berries, peas, corn, lima beans, and cooked carrots (soft enough to bite easily). Nothing with seeds! I keep frozen mixed veggies on hand, and just defrost a handful now and then to give the turtles. I keep the live worms in the refrigerator. Some people squirm at the thought!

They are turtles, but they are not swimmers. Box turtles need fresh water to drink and soak in, but it shouldn’t be more than 1 1/2” deep or they will drown. A saucer designed to go under a ceramic pot works well.

Their beaks and claws grow continuously. A cuddle bone (like you give to birds) may help them wear down the beak. If not trimmed, it may interfere with their ability to eat, and cause malnutrition. I take my turtles to the vet about once a year for a beak and toenail trim. Those long toenails are meant for digging.

Illness
A box turtle that does not get enough warmth will get sick. When I lived in Seattle, I didn’t know this, and one of my box turtles got a cold – Yes, a runny snotty nose just like a little kid! I took him to the vet and he propped open Ethel’s shell with a pencil so she couldn’t close it. He meared her runny nose against a slide and looked at it under a microscope. An antibiotic shot and powdered antibiotics on her food for a few days and Ethel was as good as new. The vet helped me set up the heat bulbs and thermostat system described above. My turtles have been healthy ever since, and do not hibernate.

Box turtles can get worms, and can also transfer salmonella to people, so wash your hands thoroughly after handling. An infestation of worms can be treated by your vet.

Safety
Dogs love turtles: they dig them up, carry them around in their mouths, and unfortunately, crush the shells and eat them. The only way to guarantee your reptile’s safety is to keep predators out. A pen made out of concrete blocks and covered with hardware cloth is fine if the dog can’t figure out how to open it. My box turtles are safe in their terrarium, though an occasional dog will stand in front of it and bark at them.

Raccoons, coyotes and bobcats are other predators that threaten your turtles’ safety.